15-Gorge of the Iruya river.

It is worth pointing out again the abundant wood in the area, in sharp contrast to the rough rocky landscape of recent days. Everything was not only made of wood, but also made with wood. The machete, along with the long-end ax on the shoulder, were ubiquitous as if part of the humanity of every person. Evidence of the modern chainsaw was found in some places, only a few really, such as the careful cuts in boards and braces. The high stone struts in the manner of jambas (jamb doorposts) on the doors, similar to those observed in Titiconte and several other places of our route, had given way to thick wooden jambs and lintels. Fire, so scarce upstream, accompanied each household that we observed in the surroundings all day long.

The rudimentary stone mills were observed everywhere, not missing in any yard. A group of teenagers laughed at the curiosity that these mills arouse in us. There were so many types and sizes that it was really necessary to stop to look at each of them, with constant amazement. The day had dawned, and we were with our horses by the riverbed. A tractor with a high trailer had arrived in Matancillas coming along the downstream river the previous evening; it brought materials for the school and helped locals move around the area. The tractor rode on a rough path that meets the river numerous times. It tows a high trailer, which was necessary to keep water from reaching the people and things it transported through the frequent river crossings. At noon, the tractor passed us, loaded with people and merchandise, and with its purring engine it rode down the river in search of Isla de Cañas. We passed the narrow of Aguas Calientes. To the north, a brook of warm waters lent its name to this place so full of greenery. Shortly afterwards, a large expanse of riverbed opened in front of us. Here, the river channel was so ample that we could securely estimate it to be at least 700 or 800 meters wide in this area. We had reached Monoyoc, a place of great ravines where the locals bring their animals in winter to graze in the absence of grass in the arid highlands. The beauty of the place left us amazed. A great glen opened to our left towards the North, then after crossing the Abra de Monoyoc, descending to the sources of the Pescado, another important river in the great Bermejo basin. A large esplanade allowed the settlement of the Monoyoc estate, a modest house made of large boards, with countless birds and monkeys stunning with their characteristic songs and squeaks, hiding among the large trees of the place. Here lived Don Eustaquio Mamaní and his wife, though they were currently absent. We observed a large corral made of dry-seated stones and numerous horses that enjoy this paradise at ease.

16-Monoyoc.

17-Trigonometric point from the Military Geographic Institute (IGM) in Monoyoc.

18-Riverbed of the Iruya river in Monoyoc.

The Iruya river continued to increase in volume, its augmented flow hindering more and more the river crossings we were forced to make. The water reached the belly of my mule, with whom I had already made good friends. He ate eagerly the orange peels that I offered, but only after watching me closely and suspiciously. Great walker this mule was. His name was "Huesito" (little bone). On the banks of this particular river and between the thicket of the jungle, we began to see open fields that announced the presence of work fields advancing over the surrounding slopes. The dense jungle of large trees had changed the landscape of the arid Puna in the area of the town of Iruya. Cebil, quina, flowered lapachos and many other tree varieties were the inhabitants of this place. We approached the narrow of San Ignacio. The waters, although calmer, had become abundant flow. After transposing the narrow, we approached the school of Limoncito located on a hilltop on the northern margin of the Iruya. It was six o’clock in the afternoon when Ruth Ormachea, teacher and principal of the school, with her many students welcomed us. In the company of Miguel and Martín, we turned out the horses in the large school grounds. The joy was widespread, partly because visitors are not common to these places, which is not to say, nonexistent. They invited us in and served us delicious mate tea and homemade bread, as the afternoon lingered and the talk continued into the night. It was the end of a sunny day full of luminosity and colors.

19-School of Limoncito.

20-Crossing the Iruya river.